“You are the one that possesses the keys to your being. You carry the passport to your own happiness.”

Diane Von Furstenberg

Over the past two days my fellow travelers and I explored four towns. That may sound like a lot, but they are small, and although they are very similar, each has its own unique character. We strolled through the historic town centers that are filled with winding stone roads, restaurants, cafes and gift shops. Not the type of shopping I prefer, but for those that like to bring home little souvenirs, it will be perfect for you. We visited Cisternino, Ostuni, Polignano a Mare, and Monopoli.

Our home for the first four nights was the beautiful Borgo Canonica. The hotel has fifteen individual trullo suites, restaurant, pool, and is surrounded by beautiful landscape. A wonderful breakfast of various Italian foods and eggs cooked to order if you want. You can take advantage of its remote location siting outdoors by the pool or walking the roads near the hotel. It was centrally located to the different cities we visited, and we never spent more than 30-40 minutes on the road to get to our destinations; primarily back roads, but there are a few areas where the roads opened up a bit.

The Puglia region is more laid back and less expensive than the Amalfi Coast. It’s not the main tourist season, so I’m sure it gets very crowded too, but in April we enjoyed having less crowds, beautiful sun, and cooler temperatures ranging from 50° to mid-60°s daily.

Our first excursion was to Cisternino. This town is said to have more locals than tourists, its heart is the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II. From there you can wander the streets in any direction. There is a picturesque view point just across from the Chiesa di San Nicola Patara to view the surrounding countryside. A couple of us broke away from the group to enjoy a glass of wine at a quiet bar. We sat outside, the street was deserted and it was perfect.

From Cisternino we drove to Ostuni, “La Citta Bianca” or “The White City”, aptly named due to the white walls around the city and the white painted buildings within the walls. If I were to stay overnight in one of these towns, this is one I’d pick, along with Monopoli. It was more lively than Cisternino, and we passed so many cafes, bars and restaurants. Wearing shoes with good treads is a must as the cobblestones are slick, and it is very hilly. There is not a lot of traffic, but you do need to keep a look out on some of the “main roads” that can actually fit a car. There is a large piazza in the center with many cafes, but I recommend you wander the streets away from the center and see what hidden gem you find for a sweet treat or beverage. As you climb the streets you will come to the large Duomo di Santa Maria Assunta (aka Ostuni Cathedral). We were told much of the inside is not the original and it is a shame they have covered the large flower window in the front so the light does not shine in the church. Across from the cathedral you will see the beautiful Arco Scopa, a covered walkway connecting the Bishop’s Palace and the seminary. We enjoyed cocktails in a fun, modern bar, Riccardo Caffe, and had dinner at Casa San Giacomo where Madonna has celebrated two of her birthdays.

The following day our first stop was Polignano a Mare. Some of you may recognize this town due to the many Instagram posts of the famous cave restaurant Ristorante Grotta Palazzese. We did not see this restaurant from above, but we did pass by it on our catamaran ride to Monopoli and it looks stunning! The streets were very busy given it was a Saturday; I can’t image what it would be like in the summer. We walked into the town center, wandered the narrow streets, and came to an area where they do cliff diving. Although no one was diving, we did have a wonderful view of the beach below and the pristine water. We didn’t have much time to explore as we had to head to the marina to catch our private catamarans that would take us to Monopoli.

The catamaran was a wonderful way to travel to our next destination. The waters were calm and the weather was perfect. We learned a bit about Polignano a Mare and Monopoli, but mostly we just enjoyed the beautiful coast and the clear skies. It was on the boats that we pulled close to the cave restaurant to take a look. At this time of year they say it’s not too hard to get a reservation, but during the high season you really need to book ahead. We anchored near the shore of Monopoli, and enjoyed some delicious food and Prosecco before coming ashore. The town was lively, but didn’t feel as crowded as Polignano a Mare. The roads although cobblestones, were not slick or steep like Ostuni. I think this town would be nice for an overnight stay as well.

These towns do not take long to tour, so you don’t need to plan an entire day for each, and I think I’d get bored if I stayed in one of them for more than a night. Although small, they cater to tourists with their many restaurants, cafes, and bars. They are definitely worth a visit, at least once.

Ciao 💕