“Rome will exist as long as the Coliseum does; when the Coliseum falls, so will Rome; when Rome falls, so will the world.”

Saint Venerable Bede, English Benedictine monk

Let’s start by saying Rome was not “love at first sight” for me. After a long travel day, then getting a bit disoriented for the exit to take out of Roma Termini station, leading me to a much longer route to my hotel, I wasn’t sure how my two solo days would go. Also, having just finished a trip to Norway and Finland, where the cities and air are clean, no one hassles you on the streets to sell things or entice you into their restaurants, their trains run with precision, and there was relatively little noise in the cities, Rome was a bit of a shock, and is the complete opposite in every way.

I did not plan an overly busy itinerary for my two days. I had two timed entry events, the Colosseum and the Borghese Gallery; hoping to add visits to Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps. Any other sites would be a bonus. Given it is the Jubilee, I planned to stay away from the Vatican. I thought I may walk through the doors of one of the churches the Pope opened on December 24th, Basilica Santa Maria Maggiore, but that did not happen. Now given the Pope’s death, and this church was his chosen burial site, I’m kicking myself as it was a couple blocks from my hotel.

After I dropped off my bags at the hotel, I made my way to the Colosseum. I was amazed at the massive size. I knew it was big, but this was much bigger than I imagined. Having followed the advice received from many vloggers on Instagram, I booked a timed entry ticket directly through the Colosseum website. They warn about booking through third parties. You need your passport, and the name on your ticket must match, they check it upon entry. There were no lines when it was my time, and entry was a breeze with my electronic ticket in my Apple wallet. I was tired, so I didn’t spend as much time there as I would have liked, and I know when I go back, I would love to sign up for a guided tour to learn more and take advantage of the historical sites around it that are included with your Colosseum ticket. I wandered the halls and took in the views, both inside and through the openings to the outdoors.

After the Colosseum, I made my way to the Vittoriano, the national monument in honor of Victor Emmanuel II. From the Colosseum I could see the massive sculpture on the roof top, and I wanted a closer look. It was beautiful even with all the construction going on around it. I need to add this site to my list of places to visit next time I’m in Rome. I was getting tired, so I made my way back towards my hotel which was near Roma Termini. I stopped at a cafe for a light bite and a beer. Who knew Peroni had an amber beer, Peroni Rossa, and it was quite tasty. I needed sleep, and I was hoping day two in Rome would make me fall in love with the city or at least entice me enough to want to come back.

The next morning, I woke early based on advice from my sister to head to the Spanish Steps before sunrise. That wasn’t going to happen, but I did manage to head out the door about 15 minutes after the sun came up. I headed for Trevi Fountain first. I started my trusty map app and swore I would not get lost. The one thing about Rome, you need to watch the roads you are walking on, not your phone, or you will most likely trip, often. After a few wrong turns, I made it. The fountain was busy but not packed. There were no queues, no police, and I was able to get some great photos. I walked right up to the water and sat on the fountain’s edge, which is no longer permitted, but being so early there was no one to stop me. I took in the beauty and thought about one of my favorite old movies, Three Coins in the Fountain, and I couldn’t believe I was there! Then it was time to venture to my next site, the Spanish Steps. I wanted to see them before they were filled with people. Once again, I trusted my map app to get me there.

After a few wrong turns, I arrived. I swear, I do have a good sense of direction, and can follow a map, but the street signs are not always that easy to find, and some streets look like alleyways, so I just turn when I think I should, and see if I’m still on my “blue line”. I was amazed, the steps that you so often see covered with tourists were virtually empty; I took advantage and sat on a step to get a picture, which is also not allowed, but once again, no one was there to stop me. I climbed to the top, took in the views of Rome, then plotted my next move. It was still early, and I did not have to be at the Borghese Gallery until 1pm, so I decided to head to the Pantheon and Piazza Navona.

The Pantheon is one of the best-preserved buildings from ancient roman times. They say the domed roof is a testament to the genius of the Roman architects of that time. I didn’t have a ticket to go in, and the lines were already forming before opening, so I walked up as close as I could to the entryway to get a glimpse inside. Okay, add this to the list of buildings to return to one day! From there I easily made my way to Piazza Navona and walked around the square admiring the fountains and continued to enjoy having another beautiful site virtually empty. Next on the agenda, breakfast! I was starving and needed coffee. I decided to head back towards Trevi Fountain as I had seen a number of cafes in the area.

On Instagram you will see everyone saying you must stop at Antico Forno Trevi for the best cornetto. Given its popularity on Instagram the lines are long, and I cannot believe people are willing to wait just for a pastry. Honestly, you are in Italy, you will find good pastries in many shops. There was no way I was going to wait, so I headed back down the street and came across Don Nino, a pastry and ice cream shop. There were five Italian policemen standing at the counter drinking coffee. I figured if it was good enough for them, it would be good enough for me. It did not disappoint. I had a wonderful pastry and a cappuccino at their outdoor tables and watched the people walking by. When I finished, I passed by Trevi Fountain, and it was packed. There were lines to get into the area of the fountain, and police whistles were going off as people tried to sit on the fountain’s edge. I was so happy I listened to my sister.

After I freshened up, I decided to head to Borghese Gallery early and walk the gardens that surround it. I wasn’t sure what to expect at the gallery or the gardens, but I wanted something relaxing in the afternoon. I am so happy I went. The gardens are beautiful, and I have to imagine in the summer they provide a nice place to rest and cool off from the heat. You can just wander the various paths and sit on the benches under the trees. The Borghese Gallery was excellent. I highly recommend you visit there when in Rome. The works of art were beautiful, and with the timed entries with 2 hours to explore, it was the perfect amount of time, and it was not very crowded. There are quite a few steps to the upper level, and I didn’t notice an elevator, so if you can’t do steps, you may want to find out if there is a way to the upper level, you don’t want to miss those rooms.

After I was done, having walked many miles already by 3pm, I was very hungry and in need of a spritz. I had zero desire to do any research for a place to eat, so I decided to head to one of my sister’s recommended stops, Naumachia, just a few blocks from the Colosseum, about 2.5 miles from the gallery, but hey, I had already done so much walking, what’s another couple of miles, I would earn that pasta dinner! Besides, I believe the best way to see a city is to walk as much as possible, and take it all in.

My early dinner at Naumachia did not disappoint. I sat outdoors to enjoy the beautiful weather. I ordered a Limoncello Spritz and a plate of Amatriciana, which was fabulous, I ate it all! If you are in Rome and are looking for a place to eat, go there. All their dishes looked wonderful as they passed by my table. After I finished, I headed back to my hotel. I had to get up early the next morning to catch the 6:20am Leonardo Express from Roma Termini to Roma Fiumicino Airport. It is a non-stop train, runs somewhat on time, it is very crowded, but it is convenient, cheap (only €14), and quick (32 minutes). On day two I logged over 27,000 steps!

My first impressions of Rome changed after my second day. I will go back to Rome, and I would love to spend 4-5 days to take in the sites at a more relaxed pace. Rome wasn’t built in a day, and neither was my love for the city, but it eventually happened, and I look forward to returning.

Ciao 💕