Week 8: A City of Food, Palaces, and Museums ~ Hello Torino!

β€œEvery old building is witnessed of unrepeatable stories.”

Mehmet Murat Ildan

After a short stay in Genova it was off to Torino (Turin). Once again, the trip was an easy 90-minute highspeed train ride. Traveling by train in Italy is both convenient and cheap. If you book early, you can get a seat in Business Class for the same price someone will pay for regular seating if they book close to the travel date. I always book early and pay a little extra to have the ability to change my ticket. My cousin met me at the station as she was joining me for two of my six nights to explore the city.

Torino is a large city, located in the Piemonte region, and is known for having some of the best wines in Italy, along with other delicious, tasty treats. The city has a lot of museums and palaces, and it is not as crowded as Firenze, Venezia, or Roma. You won’t hear much English spoken here, and if you do, it is typically British. Americans tend to skip Torino, and thankfully, over-tourism hasn’t hit here yet. I was there during a long holiday weekend, so it was busy, but mostly Italians taking a three-day holiday. On Monday, the streets and squares were quiet with primarily just locals and a few tourists. It was perfect!

Stazione Porta Nuova

My cousin and I quickly navigated our way to the Airbnb. After we dropped off our bags, we headed to our first destination to have a Bicerin! I had been reading about the bicerin and the correct way to drink it for weeks leading up to my visit, and now, it would be my first stop in Torino.

The bicerin is a traditional hot layered drink from the 18th century. The bottom layer is espresso, then hot chocolate followed by a layer of cold cream. You do not stir the bicerin, you simply sip it from the glass and let the flavors meld together. Each layer is at a different temperature and the top layer cools the drink so you don’t need to worry about it being too hot. It pairs perfectly with cookies. It was first served at CaffΓ© al Bicerin, so that is where we went for this tasty treat.

Another sweet treat in Torino is the gianduiotto. It is a chocolate-hazelnut candy that melts in your mouth and is a specialty from Torino. You are probably familiar with another chocolate-hazelnut treat, Nutella, but this is much better. The gianduiotto was developed in Torino in 1852. They grind hazelnuts into a paste and blend it into the chocolate. These chocolates are rich and creamy.

Across from the cafΓ© was a church, Basilica di Santa Maria della Consolazione, from the outside it doesn’t look like much, but once you enter, it is amazing. The church has a long history dating back to the 5th century, and over the centuries there were additions and renovations leading up to what you see today when you visit. For the remainder of the afternoon we wandered around the city center and ended our day with a relaxing dinner at the apartment.

The next morning we took a free tour with Free Walking Tour Italia, and once again, they did a wonderful job. Our guide was knowledgeable, funny, and you could tell she was very proud of her city. We learned about the history and the architecture of the city, giving me a whole new appreciation for Torino . After leaving the vibrant colors and large palazzos of Genova, I felt Torino was dull, no color, and all the buildings appeared similar. I learned that the piemontesi even in the early days did not believe in showing off their wealth, including the nobles. All buildings were built the same height and structure, but once you step inside, you see just how elegant they are. They believe if someone needs to show their wealth with big logos on their clothes, handbags, or drive cars like Ferraris in the city center where you can’t appreciate their full power, you must have low self-esteem and need to β€œshow off”.

Historical shops are preserved and when a new business moves in they cannot change the structure inside or out. You may see an old sign for a β€œFarmacia”, but when you go inside, it’s not a pharmacy. The are also seventeen historical cafΓ©s in the city that you can visit, including CaffΓ© al Bicerin. There is one very tall, ugly brick building near the center that appears out of place, the Torre Littoria. When it was built, the city could not refuse, it was built during the Mussolini era and was supposed to be the national fascist party’s headquarters, enough said.

After our tour we went for lunch at Casa Broglia, It was very good, and it is located in an area where there are a lot of restaurants to choose from. This was where I tried another traditional dish from this region, vitello tonnato. Honestly, when I first heard of this dish, I did not find it appealing at all, but then I tried it, and it was delicious. It is an appetizer, served chilled, containing poached veal, topped with a creamy sauce made from tuna, capers, anchovies, and hard-boiled eggs or mayonnaise.

After lunch we headed to Palazzo Reale di Torino, or the Royal Palace of Turin. The building is massive, and there is quite a bit to see, but much of the building is not open to the public. You can buy a timed entry ticket online and then wander through the halls. The rooms are a collection of original palace rooms with the original furniture, there is a section that contains an impressive collection of antique armor for both humans and horses, and other rooms are set up as an art museum. After our time at the palace we headed to the Po River for a walk. It was a beautiful warm day, and many people were along the Po enjoying aperitivos and time with their friends and family.

After my cousin left, I spent the remaining days wandering the city at a leisurely pace. I went to cafΓ©s, explored different streets and shops, and visited two museums.

I first spent an afternoon at the Museo Egizio, the Egyptian Museum. This museum is over 200 years old, and has the second largest collection of Egyptian artifacts in the world. There is so much to see in this museum, and just when you think you entered the last room, there is more. I made the big mistake and forgot my earbuds, so I was not able to do the self-guided tour; I guess I’ll just have to visit again. Our tourguide the day before said to plan on two-hours, but honestly, it takes much more time if you really want to appreciate all it has to offer. I suggest you buy a timed entry ticket online a few days before you want to visit, as they sell out many days of the week.

I spent another afternoon at the Museo Nazionale del Cinema. The museum is located in the impressive Mole Antonelliana building, an iconic landmark in the city that was built in the mid to late 1800s and it is 550 feet tall. When you buy a ticket, you can include a ride up the glass elevator to the observation deck to see a panoramic view of Torino. It is beautiful and I recommend doing it. If you are nervous in elevators, don’t be, they don’t pack it full, only 10 passengers plus the elevator operator for each ride. I wish I was able to go on a sunnier day, but much like the Egyptian Museum, if you don’t buy a ticket ahead of time, you may not be able to visit as they too sell out. The museum houses a large collection of equipment used to make some of the earliest films, and various posters, and other collectibles, as well as hosting various exhibitions. While I was visiting, they had an Orsen Wells exhibit. I suggest giving yourself about 2-2.5hours including the elevator ride if you visit.

There is a lot to do in Torino, but having done little research, and having a bout of laryngitis while I was visiting, I didn’t do as much as I could have. I would suggest both food and wine tours in this region, and to visit some of the other palaces in the area. I know I will go back to Torino again, and next time, I’ll do a bit more research and figure out what other sites I would like to see. Many people skip this city, but it is one that shouldn’t be missed.

Next I’m off to Peschiera del Garda, a city at southern end of Lago di Garda.

Arriverderci! 413 Girl πŸ’•